Bibliography:
Bryant, Austin. “All About Boro – The Story of Japanese Patchwork.” Heddels, 9 May 2018.
The Japanese style called “Boro” was created in the 19th century out of necessity. Kimonos were very popular during this time, but cotton was scarce in Japan, so they used scraps of other fabrics to patch up their kimonos when there were holes in them. They used the “Sashiko” stitching method to sew in their “boro” patches, and thus, Boro as we know it was born.
There is not really an opinion presented by the author, more of a recollection of history.
This article is useful to our senior project because it traces back to the roots of a sewing method we will try to implement in some of our own garments. The Japanese brand “Kapital” is one of our inspirations and they mainly work in this style of garment making, so it is very interesting to see what our inspiration is inspired by.
Braungart, Michael, and William McDonough. Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. Vintage, 2019.
This is a book written by chemist Michael Braungart and architect William McDonough where they dissect the idea of the cradle to grave business model asking the question of why does human industry mean damaging the environment. As environmentalists urge everyone to do more with less to prevent as much damage as possible.
In the book the authors thourouhgly explore new ways of conducting business and producing products. They offer excellent alternatives to classic business models as Braungart explores the ways businesses can design products from the start that once they fufill their use go one to help grow something new. I think this idea is beautiful in the way it can benefit humans and the natural world.
This applies directly to our senior project as we confront the challenge of designing and creating clothes that dont contribute to waste but take away waste. Using second hand clothes that would have otherwise been bundled up burned, thrown away or shipped off to another country where they end up on beaches the ocean and landfills. This book provides us with a good set of examples of ways to reimagine production and creation of product which is connected directly to our essential question.
Cernansky, Rachel. “Sustainability: Where Fashion Is Heading in 2022.” Vogue Business, 5 Jan. 2022
This article is written by Rachel Cernansky who is the sustainability editor for Vogue Business and she covers the environment and health of the Washington Post and the New York Times. This article talks about the reality of the fashion industry and the amount to which it affects the natural world as well as the lacking changes from fashion labels and companies. This article did an excellent job of revealing the system that allows such waste to be created. Explaining that the issue is not just with the type of textiles or worker wages but within the supply chain and large effects of the fossil fuel industry as it has set up a model of low wages cheap products which leads to overproduction of waste and overuse of hazardous materials.
This article really got in-depth on a level I have not seen in other material about sustainability in fashion. Cernansky got to the root of why the fashion industry is the way it is revealing connections that I had previously not seen such as the connection to the fossil fuel industry.
This applies directly to our essential question of how to run a business sustainably especially running a sustainable fashion label. This article helps provide context for our essential question and shows us the right direction to start moving in.
Milasius, Matthew. “4 Sewing Stitches Used in Manufacturing and Their Benefits.” Manufacturing and QC Blog, InTouch Knowledge Hub, 13 Dec. 2016
This article is written by Matthew Milasius and talks about 4 Different methods of stitching and their application in garment manufacturing. The first method is called Chain Stitching, which is created by multiple threads looping in and out in a sort of chain-like pattern, hence the name. This stitching method is very aesthetically pleasing, but the loops of the chain tend to come out over time, and it takes up a lot of space. The next method is called the Multithread Chain Stitch, which is basically the same thing except with more threads to increase durability. It is often used on elastic waistbands. The cons are all of the cons the same as the previous method, but to a higher degree due to more string being used. The third method is called the Lockstitch. It is also known as single-needle stitching. It is the most basic sewing method, as it literally is just poking a single needle in and pulling it through the same side of the fabric over and over. It is not good for flexible applications, like on a waistband or on knit fabrics. Finally, there is the Overlock Stitch, which is typically used in oversewing, “the sewing technique of creating a stitch over the edge of cut fabric. One group of thread goes around the edge of the fabric so that the threads from it are contained, which typically reinforces the inner stitching.”
This article is very useful in regards to our project because it gives us insight into which stitching methods to use for particular parts of a garment. The article explains the construction of each type of stitch, and their practical applications, which directly correlate to what we are doing, as we are making clothes. We can reference this article if we ever come across an issue with the integrity of a garment, or if something needs repairing and we need to figure out which stitching method would be best for that situation.
Harris, Shayla, and Vanessa Friedman. Rick Owens Interview | In the Studio | The New York Times, 28 Sept. 2014
Rick Owens is one of the biggest and most influential fashion designers in modern-day fashion. His influence has been felt throughout fashion music and many subcultures, his emphasis on a dark color palette and interesting interpretations of classic silhouettes makes his brand very popular today. Most people classify Rick as existing in the avant-garde fashion scene which is steadily growing more and more mainstream almost all because of Rick Owens.
In this video, Rick Owens speaks on his creative process. Almost all designers use something called a “Mood Board” which is essentially a board where you pin a bunch of images of inspiration that revolve around a certain theme or mood. Rick Owens said in his interview that he prefers to just go with the flow of his pieces and prefers to not take a premeditated approach to his design process.
This video is useful to our project because we will essentially be the designers of our own brand, and looking at a world-renowned designer’s creative process gives us an example of a method of creating timeless pieces. Although everyone works differently, looking at someone else’s process can help us find our own.