I just got back from gymnastics in West Hampton. My mom was at court and she was driving home to pick me up so I could go surfing with Maya and Bo. Maya is my friend and Bo is our instructor who was weirdly at court with my mom. We had a lesson 2 days ago. Today we were going to Ditch Planes. It’s really rocky and there’s about a hundred people surfing and a hundred people swimming. It has really good waves but it’s not my favorite place to surf.
Around thirty minutes later my mom came home with Maya and Bo came a few minutes later. We hopped into his truck and started driving to Montauk. We got out at the entrance where the East Deck used to be and carried the surf boards on to the beach. There were no parking spots so Bo parked somewhere else while Maya and I put on our wetsuits and got ready. Once he came back he decided that the waves were better on the other side of the beach so we had to carry our heavy surf boards all the way down the beach. Finally we got in the water. I paddled out and it was fine. I surfed my first wave. I was fine. I surfed a few more. I was fine.
After one big wave I surfed I got stuck in the impact zone. (The impact zone is where all the waves crash. Usually the crash pretty hard.) I started freaking out. Bo had the come save me. I was freaking out. I was terrified. I had a choice, I could walk out with the sharp rocks on the ground or I could paddle back out to Maya and go over really big waves and probably fall off a lot more. I had to choose quick because the waves just kept crashing onto me. I chose to paddle out. It was tough but I got there. After a few more waves and a few more Piper recuses we went back in.



